Queensland
The Shape of It
A place so large that its own residents have never seen most of it.
Queensland begins where New South Wales runs out of ambition and ends somewhere near Papua New Guinea. It covers 1.72 million square kilometres, making it the sixth-largest subdivision of any country on Earth — larger than all but sixteen nations. The Cape York Peninsula, that triangular finger pointing north-west toward the Torres Strait, is the northernmost point of the Australian mainland. From there, the state curves around the Gulf of Carpentaria to the west and descends along the coast as far south as the 29th parallel, where it hands the continent politely back to New South Wales.
More than 60 percent of Queenslanders live in the south-eastern corner, mostly within commuting distance of Brisbane. The remainder are distributed across an area that can accommodate several European countries without them noticing each other. The outback west is flat, ochre, largely waterless on the surface, and sits atop the world’s largest artesian basin. The Great Artesian Basin holds water that fell as rain more than a million years ago and has been slowly percolating south through porous sandstone ever since. When bore water comes up, it is warm and faintly sulphurous. Some of it has not seen daylight since the Cretaceous.
In the far north-east, the Daintree Rainforest is around 180 million years old. It was old when the dinosaurs were young. It contains plants with no close relatives elsewhere on Earth, descended from species that existed before Australia separated from Gondwana. Just to its east, the Great Barrier Reef begins. Nowhere else on the planet do two UNESCO World Heritage ecosystems share a boundary. They meet at Cape Tribulation, which Cook named while his ship was being destroyed on the reef.
Mount Bellenden Ker, south of Cairns, receives more than eight metres of rain in an average year — the most of any place in Australia. The Simpson Desert, in the state’s far south-west, receives less than two hundred millimetres. Queensland contains both of these, and everything between them. The most northerly recorded snowfall in Australian history occurred near Mackay. This is acknowledged as exceptional.
Notable Folk
The inventors, the reluctant immigrants, the composers who were forgotten, and the entomologist who wasn’t.
The Queenslander
A house that touches the earth lightly, catches every available breeze, and appears in a children’s cartoon.
The Queenslander is not a style of house but a type — a response to a climate that European settlers did not understand and had not encountered. The defining features are: timber frame, corrugated iron roof pitched steeply against tropical rain, wide verandahs on at least two sides, and the whole structure raised above the ground on timber stumps. This elevation became the signature of Queensland domestic architecture from the 1850s onward, and it remains one of the most recognisable house forms in Australia.
The raising served multiple purposes. It caught the prevailing breezes at a height where they were stronger and cooler. It protected the timber from termites — an ever-present threat in the sub-tropics — by keeping the wood off the warm wet ground. It allowed floodwater to pass beneath the floor without carrying the house with it. And in the early decades, when miasma theory still held that ‘bad air’ close to the ground caused tropical disease, elevation was considered simply medically prudent. The theory was wrong, but the house it produced was right for the conditions.
The underfloor space was not wasted. Children played there. Tools were stored there. In later years, cars were parked there. Some houses were eventually ‘built in underneath’ to create extra rooms, producing what look from the outside like two-storey buildings but are in fact one-storey buildings on very confident stumps. The wide verandahs served as sleeping areas during hot weather, as socialising rooms, as laundry areas and, in the Victorian era, as the primary interface between the household and the street.
The quintessential Queenslander is also, incidentally, the family home of the Heeler family in the children’s television programme Bluey, which has introduced the form to children on every inhabited continent. It is the most-seen piece of Queensland architecture in human history, and it is a cartoon dog’s house.
The Local Tongue
What Queenslanders call each other, and what others call them.
Queensland has contributed its share to the larger vocabulary of Australian English, mostly through the sheer incongruity of its inhabitants and landscape with the sensibilities of the south. The terms below are in regular use and require no apology.
Place Names
Queensland has more knobs than any other Australian state. This is official.
Yorkeys Knob takes its name from George “Yorkey” Lawson, a fisherman from Yorkshire who settled near Cairns in the late nineteenth century. The headland reminded him of a feature back home that would have been called a nab. Somewhere in the decades between then and now, ‘nab’ became ‘knob.’ The locals have made their peace with the result.
Kaimkillenbun, in the Western Downs between Dalby and Bell, holds the distinction of being the longest single-word place name in Queensland at thirteen letters. Its residents call it simply The Bun. The name is believed to derive from an Aboriginal word meaning ‘open mouth.’
Alligator Creek, near Townsville, contains no alligators. There are no alligators in Australia. There are saltwater crocodiles, which are larger and considerably more dangerous, but they are called crocodiles. The creek was named by someone who did not know the difference, or who found ‘Crocodile Creek’ insufficiently alarming.
Dicky Beach is named after the SS Dicky, a small coastal steamship that ran aground there in 1893 and was never successfully refloated. It was left to rust on the beach, a fixture for 74 years, until it was finally removed in 1967. The name was retained.
Mount Surprise is 453 metres above sea level, which is not very surprising for a mountain but is at least honest. It has a pub, a café, two petrol stations, a gem shop, and a police station. The real coffee, for a town of its size, is genuinely surprising.
The Uninvited Guest
The cane toad: 102 arrived in June 1935 and one of them died on the way.
The grey-backed cane beetle was eating the roots of Queensland’s sugar crop, and something had to be done. In 1935, the Bureau of Sugar Experiment Stations sent its entomologist, Reginald Mungomery, to Hawaii, where cane toads had apparently reduced beetle damage. On 1 June 1935, Mungomery and two colleagues raided suburban Honolulu lawns in a jalopy at night, filling hessian sacks with 102 large toads. They were sealed in wooden cases with moistened wood shavings and shipped south. One died of dehydration in transit. The other 101 landed at Gordonvale, near Cairns, on 22 June 1935.
“This great toad, immune from enemies, omnivorous in its habits, and breeding all the year round, may become as great a pest as the rabbit or cactus.”
Froggatt, a prominent entomologist, lobbied the federal Health Department to ban further releases. He succeeded — briefly. The Prime Minister, Joseph Lyons, rescinded the ban in 1936 under pressure from the Queensland government and the press. By March 1937, 62,000 toadlets had been released across the coastal cane districts. No one had tested, before releasing them, whether the toads would actually eat the beetles.
They did not, or not enough to matter. The beetles are now controlled by chemical pesticides. The toads spread west, south and north, reaching New South Wales in 1978, the Northern Territory border in 1984, and the Kimberley in Western Australia by 2011. The estimated Australian population is now over 200 million. They are poisonous to most native predators. They eat almost everything else. They breed all year round.
The National Trust of Queensland has since listed the cane toad as a state icon, alongside the Great Barrier Reef. Townsville holds an annual Toad Day Out, where community members catch as many toads as possible and prizes are awarded for the heaviest haul. In 2023, rangers in Conway National Park discovered a female specimen — unofficially measured at 25 cm and 2.7 kg, and nicknamed “Toadzilla” — which may be the largest cane toad ever recorded. It has been preserved for display at the Queensland Museum.
Signs & Songs
A song about a sheep theft and a suicide, which Australia chose as its unofficial national anthem.
Banjo Paterson came to Winton in the winter of 1895 to visit his fiancée. While staying at nearby Dagworth Station, he heard from Robert Macpherson about the shearers’ strike of the previous year, during which a man named Samuel Hoffmeister had set fire to the station’s shearing shed and then shot himself at a waterhole called Combo rather than be arrested. Paterson set lyrics to a tune that Christina Macpherson — Robert’s sister — had heard at a race meeting in Warrnambool and could play on the autoharp she found in the station. The song was first performed publicly at the North Gregory Hotel in Winton on 6 April 1895. (The Blue Heeler Hotel at Kynuna, 160 kilometres up the road, also claims the first performance. The dispute continues. Kynuna has six residents and is not afraid of Winton.)
Paterson’s engagement to his fiancée was reportedly broken off after the visit — possibly because of the liaison with Christina that may or may not have produced the song. The full story is lost. The song was sold to a tea company in 1902, whose musical arranger, Marie Cowan, softened one of the key lines: in the original, the swagman drowns himself; in the Billy Tea version, he simply vows “you’ll never catch me alive.” The Billy Tea version is the one everyone knows.
Oh there once was a swagman camped in the Billabong,
Under the shade of a Coolibah tree;
And he sang as he looked at the old billy boiling,
“Who’ll come a-waltzing Matilda with me?”
— Verse I
Who’ll come a-waltzing Matilda with me?
Waltzing Matilda and leading a water-bag,
Who’ll come a-waltzing Matilda with me?
Down came a jumbuck to drink at the waterhole,
Up jumped the swagman and grabbed him in glee;
And he sang as he stowed him away in the tucker-bag,
“You’ll come a-waltzing Matilda with me!”
Down came the Squatter a-riding on his thoroughbred,
Down came Policemen, one, two, and three;
“Whose is the jumbuck you’ve got in the tucker-bag?
You’ll come a-waltzing Matilda with we.”
Up sprang the swagman and jumped in the waterhole,
Drowning himself by the Coolibah tree;
And his voice can be heard as it sings in the Billabong,
“Who’ll come a-waltzing Matilda with me?”
— Verse IV; this ending was softened to “you’ll never catch me alive, said he” in the 1903 Billy Tea version. The ghost verse was retained in both.
This hotel claims the first public performance of Waltzing Matilda on 6 April 1895. The tap water in the upstairs rooms smells of sulphur, owing to the Great Artesian Basin below. A note is provided advising guests to let it settle before drinking. It does not fully settle.
The words billabong (a waterhole), jumbuck (a sheep), and coolibah (a species of eucalyptus that grows near water) are either of Aboriginal origin or derived from contact with Aboriginal languages. Waltzing Matilda itself comes from German — auf der Walz, meaning to travel as a journeyman, combined with the use of “Matilda” as a name for a swag. The song is uniquely Australian in the way that many Australian things are: assembled from elsewhere, and entirely itself.
Did You Know?
A selection of facts that reward a second look.
- That QANTAS was founded on 16 November 1920 in Winton — a town of perhaps eight hundred people in the Queensland outback — with a starting capital of £6,307? The airline’s first ever paying passenger, on its inaugural scheduled service from Longreach to Cloncurry in November 1922, was an 84-year-old outback pioneer named Alexander Kennedy, who received ticket number one. He had spent most of his life on horseback. The flight was piloted by Hudson Fysh.
- That Queensland abolished its upper house of parliament in 1922 and remains the only Australian state without one? The Labor government of the time, frustrated by a hostile upper house blocking social legislation, simply packed it with enough new Labor members to vote itself out of existence. Subsequent governments found the absence of a second chamber extremely convenient.
- That under the electoral system known as the “Bjelkemander,” a rural vote in Queensland was worth roughly twice an urban one? At its peak, the Country Party needed on average 7,000 votes to win a rural seat and Labor needed 12,000 to win a city seat. Bjelke-Petersen remained Premier through election after election despite his party frequently receiving fewer total votes than the Opposition. He described the system as democratic.
- That Bjelke-Petersen was awarded the Knight Commander of the Order of St Michael and St George in 1984 for “services to parliamentary democracy?” This was not ironic. It was the citation.
- That the Great Artesian Basin, underlying much of western Queensland, is the world’s largest artesian basin, holding an estimated 65 million gigalitres of water? Some of that water entered the rock formations during the Cretaceous period, more than 65 million years ago. The bore water that comes up today — warm, faintly sulphurous — has been underground for longer than humans have existed as a species.
- That the Lark Quarry site, 110 kilometres south-west of Winton, preserves more than 3,300 dinosaur footprints from around 95 million years ago, believed to be the world’s only known record of a dinosaur stampede? The traditional interpretation holds that 180 small dinosaurs fled in panic from a large predator. A competing interpretation, published in 2011, proposes they were simply crossing a river ford in no particular hurry. The site is a national monument either way.
- That the Daintree Rainforest — at around 180 million years old — was ancient before the dinosaurs emerged, and contains plant families with no living relatives elsewhere? The ancestors of today’s ferns, cycads and conifers grew in the Daintree while the supercontinent Gondwana was still breaking apart. The rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef share a border at Cape Tribulation: the only place on Earth where two World Heritage ecosystems are immediately adjacent.
- That the Royal Flying Doctor Service made its inaugural flight in 1928, departing from Cloncurry in western Queensland, operated by QANTAS? The service was founded by Reverend John Flynn of the Australian Inland Mission, who had observed that remote Australians could not access medical care quickly enough to survive emergencies. The first aircraft was a de Havilland DH.50. The RFDS now operates 71 aircraft from 23 bases across Australia.
- That when Bjelke-Petersen abolished Queensland’s death duties in 1977 — at a cost of $30 million in annual revenue — so many wealthy Australians from New South Wales and Victoria moved or claimed to move to Queensland to benefit, that all other Australian states had abolished their own death duties within months? The Gold Coast building boom that followed lasted three decades.
- That the Min Min light — a phenomenon reported from the Channel Country of western Queensland since European settlement, and regarded by many as supernatural — is now explained as a Fata Morgana: light from natural or artificial sources refracted by temperature inversions over the flat outback landscape, sometimes from sources hundreds of kilometres away? The named settlement of Min Min, from which the lights take their name, no longer exists. The hotel burned down.
- That Brisbane was originally called Edenglassie, before being named after Sir Thomas Brisbane, then Governor of New South Wales, who had never visited the place? Brisbane himself was more interested in astronomy than colonial administration; he built an observatory at Parramatta and catalogued more than 7,000 southern-hemisphere stars. The city named after him is now the third-largest in Australia.
- That Queensland’s Legislative Assembly, which first sat in May 1860, produced Australia’s first parliamentary Hansard in April 1864? Parliament had been sitting for four years without anyone recording what was said.
- That the seeds of Queensland’s sugar industry — and therefore the conditions for the cane toad disaster — were laid when a man named Captain Louis Hope grew the first successful sugar crop at Moreton Bay in 1862 and established a mill two years later? He was regarded as the father of the Australian sugar industry. He did not live to see the toads.
This page draws on original research and a range of published sources including the Australian National Dictionary, the Queensland Historical Atlas, the Wikipedia articles on Queensland, Joh Bjelke-Petersen, the Bjelkemander, Cane Toads in Australia, Waltzing Matilda, QANTAS, the Lark Quarry Dinosaur Trackways, and the Queenslander (architecture); plus the excellent online records of the Australian National Dictionary Centre at the Australian National University. The selection, arrangement and editorial commentary are original to this page. All errors of emphasis are ours; all genuine curiosities belong to Queensland itself.